Just Zip It!

Hello again!!!!


Well, I am up for another post of sorts and I thought this was a real treat for me to do because it made me venture out into the more modern and sexy world of dresses.

It turns out that I have a thing for getting a sixth sense about what type of inspiration hits me when I am shopping and I am fully aware that I will drain my wallet a bit for a dump of magazines that I truly don't need for the time being.  It turns out that I do see the things I would expect to find in a magazine I haven't perused and this is what I found haunting me a couple of weeks ago:




Photo Source: UK Stylewatch

No kidding, a black dress with 3/4 length sleeves?  You are probably thinking that this is a "Ugh, so what" situation.  But actually upon buying it, my haunch was right bang on! 

I don't have a dress with zipper detail!  And yes, I am aware that I may have the wrong cup size for a surplice neckline, but I thought to myself:  "How am I going to pull this off this time?"

I found a pattern that gave me enough princess seams and a modern look to incorporate the zipper trim in my seams, and that was just the first step.  I then went back to my usual haunt and started to purchase by-the-metre zipper.  I knew I didn't want the colour it was offering so I asked about what else they had.  Turns out I didn't have to buy a "zipper" but actually "zipper teeth" ready made trim in
burnished gold, silver and pewter.  I really thought this is going to work like a hot damn and it totally did!

I purchased McCalls 6028 Sheath dress.  Now, I had to be crafty here and change the pattern.  I didn't want to run zipper tape all the way down to the hem in one go(I didn't buy enough and yeah I am cheap), so I altered the pattern to create a waist seam.  As long as the pattern states anywhere where the waist is situated on any one piece then I am truly set to go.

I chose monochrome, front slit, sleeveless with waist and zipper trim

Turns out that measured from the bottom of any pattern piece the waist line is situated at 64.3 cm on this particular pattern.

I then drew a line with my T square that is my cutting line on all pieces of the dress.  I then decided to make a slit on the front instead of a vent in the back. 

The way I cut my newly altered pieces without destroying the original pattern:

(This includes method for: Front, Side Front, Side Back, Back.)

1. I drew a straight line across all pattern pieces concerning the waist line at 64.3 cm from the bottom.
2. I pinned the pattern pieces to the fabric and drew a line on my fabric where the waist line occured
3. I then added the standard 1.5 cm seam allowance below the bodice portion and included that when I cut the piece only concerning the bodice.
4. After tracing out my size for the bodice piece, I moved the same pattern piece for the skirt and traced out seperately my size and drew a line where the waist is and added the 1.5 cm seam allowance above the waist line mark.

So, now my sheath dress really isn't anymore but I sure saved time and money on my zipper trim.(which I parlayed that to the waist seam effort).  Whatever.


So, also, this particular pattern didn't have a lining so I said "YES!" I saved more time and money !
To me this only means that I have to finish my seams with a serge, which is fine considering that all retail clothes have finishes this way.


And I am truly liking this new fangled dress I did.  I wasn't sure about the whole length piece version. 

Anyway here are some pictures of this more modern and sexy dress I have.

Front.  I decided to raise the slit an extra 3 cm! Why not??!

Back

Centre Back zipper waist join.  Totally matches! (R to L)
Where is the zipper? 

Close up of the zipper trim at front on the princess seam on bust line.

Now you are probably thinking  " How did you add the zipper trim?"

Easy enough.

1. I first serged my edges concerning where the trim is.  I didn't need a mess of raw edges to deal with. Screw that!
2. I pinned it down and cut out to fit the length.
3. BASTE your trim in with teeth facing away from the edge. I can't stress that enough! Install it like you would like a regular zipper.  Place the edge of the tape along the edge of your serge.  This will ensure that it will line up with your sewn seam allowance to other pieces.
4. Using a zipper foot, sew the trim to the fabric but sew the tape somewhere in the middle. You want to do this trust me.

Now we are prepped with the zipper trim concerning all seams where you want to place it.  I didn't add any trim to the Side Front-Side Back seam BECAUSE it would be very uncomfortable and scratchy every time you put your arms down to rest.

Now you are probably thinking, "What happens when you have a seam crossing the zipper teeth?"

Easy enough

1. Once you have sewn your zipper trim to the fabric, measure in 1.5 cm on edges where a seam would occur.
2. Begin by cutting out the required number of teeth at the 1.5 cm seam line.
3. Cut just below the teeth on the trim.  You may need that tape for stabilization.
4. Sew your seams as usual.
5. If you have a seam concerning the length of your zipper teeth, use a zipper foot to get as close as possible to the teeth as well as the 1.5 cm seam line.



Here we see zipper trim on the shoulder seam which I attached to the front.
See the attached sewn line somewhere in the middle?  That is your securing stitch.
See how I lined the tape with the serged edge?
I cut into 1.5 cm on either side where a seam from other pieces occur and removed the teeth
On average 6-7 teeth were removed to line up with the seam allowance


 

And that really is it.  I couldn't really do more with this plan as I lived out the temporary dream....which was accomplished a little under a week. I suppose that I could have used an exposed zipper in the back but nothing I found matched with what was available, so maybe next time.



YAY!!!!!



Alright...see you next time!



Karin