Just Zip It!

Hello again!!!!


Well, I am up for another post of sorts and I thought this was a real treat for me to do because it made me venture out into the more modern and sexy world of dresses.

It turns out that I have a thing for getting a sixth sense about what type of inspiration hits me when I am shopping and I am fully aware that I will drain my wallet a bit for a dump of magazines that I truly don't need for the time being.  It turns out that I do see the things I would expect to find in a magazine I haven't perused and this is what I found haunting me a couple of weeks ago:




Photo Source: UK Stylewatch

No kidding, a black dress with 3/4 length sleeves?  You are probably thinking that this is a "Ugh, so what" situation.  But actually upon buying it, my haunch was right bang on! 

I don't have a dress with zipper detail!  And yes, I am aware that I may have the wrong cup size for a surplice neckline, but I thought to myself:  "How am I going to pull this off this time?"

I found a pattern that gave me enough princess seams and a modern look to incorporate the zipper trim in my seams, and that was just the first step.  I then went back to my usual haunt and started to purchase by-the-metre zipper.  I knew I didn't want the colour it was offering so I asked about what else they had.  Turns out I didn't have to buy a "zipper" but actually "zipper teeth" ready made trim in
burnished gold, silver and pewter.  I really thought this is going to work like a hot damn and it totally did!

I purchased McCalls 6028 Sheath dress.  Now, I had to be crafty here and change the pattern.  I didn't want to run zipper tape all the way down to the hem in one go(I didn't buy enough and yeah I am cheap), so I altered the pattern to create a waist seam.  As long as the pattern states anywhere where the waist is situated on any one piece then I am truly set to go.

I chose monochrome, front slit, sleeveless with waist and zipper trim

Turns out that measured from the bottom of any pattern piece the waist line is situated at 64.3 cm on this particular pattern.

I then drew a line with my T square that is my cutting line on all pieces of the dress.  I then decided to make a slit on the front instead of a vent in the back. 

The way I cut my newly altered pieces without destroying the original pattern:

(This includes method for: Front, Side Front, Side Back, Back.)

1. I drew a straight line across all pattern pieces concerning the waist line at 64.3 cm from the bottom.
2. I pinned the pattern pieces to the fabric and drew a line on my fabric where the waist line occured
3. I then added the standard 1.5 cm seam allowance below the bodice portion and included that when I cut the piece only concerning the bodice.
4. After tracing out my size for the bodice piece, I moved the same pattern piece for the skirt and traced out seperately my size and drew a line where the waist is and added the 1.5 cm seam allowance above the waist line mark.

So, now my sheath dress really isn't anymore but I sure saved time and money on my zipper trim.(which I parlayed that to the waist seam effort).  Whatever.


So, also, this particular pattern didn't have a lining so I said "YES!" I saved more time and money !
To me this only means that I have to finish my seams with a serge, which is fine considering that all retail clothes have finishes this way.


And I am truly liking this new fangled dress I did.  I wasn't sure about the whole length piece version. 

Anyway here are some pictures of this more modern and sexy dress I have.

Front.  I decided to raise the slit an extra 3 cm! Why not??!

Back

Centre Back zipper waist join.  Totally matches! (R to L)
Where is the zipper? 

Close up of the zipper trim at front on the princess seam on bust line.

Now you are probably thinking  " How did you add the zipper trim?"

Easy enough.

1. I first serged my edges concerning where the trim is.  I didn't need a mess of raw edges to deal with. Screw that!
2. I pinned it down and cut out to fit the length.
3. BASTE your trim in with teeth facing away from the edge. I can't stress that enough! Install it like you would like a regular zipper.  Place the edge of the tape along the edge of your serge.  This will ensure that it will line up with your sewn seam allowance to other pieces.
4. Using a zipper foot, sew the trim to the fabric but sew the tape somewhere in the middle. You want to do this trust me.

Now we are prepped with the zipper trim concerning all seams where you want to place it.  I didn't add any trim to the Side Front-Side Back seam BECAUSE it would be very uncomfortable and scratchy every time you put your arms down to rest.

Now you are probably thinking, "What happens when you have a seam crossing the zipper teeth?"

Easy enough

1. Once you have sewn your zipper trim to the fabric, measure in 1.5 cm on edges where a seam would occur.
2. Begin by cutting out the required number of teeth at the 1.5 cm seam line.
3. Cut just below the teeth on the trim.  You may need that tape for stabilization.
4. Sew your seams as usual.
5. If you have a seam concerning the length of your zipper teeth, use a zipper foot to get as close as possible to the teeth as well as the 1.5 cm seam line.



Here we see zipper trim on the shoulder seam which I attached to the front.
See the attached sewn line somewhere in the middle?  That is your securing stitch.
See how I lined the tape with the serged edge?
I cut into 1.5 cm on either side where a seam from other pieces occur and removed the teeth
On average 6-7 teeth were removed to line up with the seam allowance


 

And that really is it.  I couldn't really do more with this plan as I lived out the temporary dream....which was accomplished a little under a week. I suppose that I could have used an exposed zipper in the back but nothing I found matched with what was available, so maybe next time.



YAY!!!!!



Alright...see you next time!



Karin

Marfy 3424 Evening Appeal...The Louboutin look-a-like

Hey Ho!

I am doing another Marfy instruction sew along to the tune of the 2014/2015 Catalogue choice.  I recently ordered this pattern a few weeks ago, and it was one on my list that was available to buy online right away rather than email order on patterns that are in the catalogue but not available online.

Thinking about the look of this dress, the skirt portion looks a lot like my MYST inspired skirt.  I don't have a huge lot of skirts with flair, but I am warming up to it.  I really liked the neck line of this dress.

So, for a few years I have enough silk taffeta remnents to cut out for this bodice.  I thought I had enough white but I don't!!!!  So, I will have to go with my burgundy/merlot coloured silk.  I really have had this fabric since 2007 actually, and I bought an abundance, which I am slowly using up.  I hope I have enough of this for a corset in the near future, as making them may take costs of up to $100, so, think Karin...do you REALLY need it?

The answer is YEAH sure!  Why not!


OK, since I bought a size 46, I need to add 2 cm seam allowance, sew at 1 cm.  I also want to add a 1 inch hem allowance, or 2.5 cm.  I also only add 1 cm for the seam allowance for non-essential sizing seams, so easy right ?!!

I may not even need the added hem allowance which I may change in the progression of this post, but, at least I added it if I need it. Sometimes I really don't like the hem to sit below my knees...it makes me look shorter believe it or not!

OK, the notions you will need:

1. Hook and Eye (maybe)
2. Invisible zipper ( 55 cm or long one)
3. Fusible Interfacing or Sew-in interfacing
4. Lining for bodice or the whole dress...your choice.
5. Fantabulous brooch for evening appeal to wow everyone and perhaps make some jealous

Pieces to cut out (straight grain):

Bodice:

Front Cut 1 on fold (fabric, lining)
Side Front Cut 2 (fabric, lining)
Back Cut 2 (fabric, lining)

Skirt (lining is optional):

Front Cut 1 on fold (fabric)
Side Front Cut 2 (fabric)
Side Back Cut 2 (fabric)
Back Cut 2 (fabric)

Facings/Stay

Front Cut 1 on fold or cut 2 with seam allowance (use interfacing same way)
Back Cut 2 on Bias (do the same for interfacing)

Uninterfaced facings cut the same for the interfaced sections.  They are seperate pieces from the other two.

Let's start with the skirt portion.  There is no rule that says you shouldn't as the bodice is made seperately.

*** Make sure you label your match point letters for each piece.  D is the centre back piece which actually doesn't match up with any piece unless you count the right and left sides of the same piece.
I say to do this because all of the pieces look the same.

Skirt sewing

A seam Front-Side Front

Starting with the CF (centre front), sew the side front piece to front piece at the A seam.  Sew both for right and left sides.  Finish seam if you intend not to line the skirt portion.  Otherwise, leave it.

 Z seam Back-Side Back

With right sides together, sew the Z match seam to join the back piece and the side back seam.  Press seam and finish. 

  Joining Front and Back halves

Now, I know on the side front there is no H matchpoint labelled on the pattern piece that joins to the side back piece, it could be a typo.  Regardless, we need to add the halves together. 
So, with right sides together, sew the side front to the side back for each R and L sides.

  CB finish D matchpoint

Finish the right and left halves of the centre back piece to prepare to install the zipper.  You may choose to serge or zig zag finish it.  I always stress this because I like a clean straight edge to use and it looks more professional.
We want that right??!!

Start sewing at the hem and stop sewing at the lower notch.  I actually stopped lower than the notch because the zipper was longer that I could accomplish this.

I know, lousy picture but take note:
The curved lines shown CF here are at the waist line.
Wavy gravy lines will give that sexy curved look and appear to make a thinner waist

Bodice Sewing

Cut out pieces with your added seam allowaces as it fits you.  I added the 2 cm seam allowance and only added 1 cm in the armhole and neckline since it does not affect the sizing of my bodice to fit my shape.

Now, transfer your pleat lines on the Front piece of the bodice.  There are 3 pleats per side that get pressed towards the CF of the bodice.

***Please note that there is only one notch to match on the Front and Side Front piece.  If you see 2 notches on the Side Front only one lines up with the grain line marker.  This one does not match with the Front.

Pleat lines:

Once that your pleat lines have been transferred to the Front piece, press towards the CF on the right side of fabric and baste across the top to hold down until you are ready to attach the bodice lining.

Side Front A seam

Sew the curved side front seam to fit the front piece.  You may stay stitch along this curve but I don't. Yeah, I'm lazy.  Press seam towards the CF.  Clip curves if you need to.

Side Back-Side Front U seam

This is a very short seam that joins the Side Back to Side Front.  Press seam out.

Finish the CB seam for the zipper installation

Lining Bodice:

Prepare the lining as the steps from the bodice fabric directions.

Now, with right sides together, baste the whole neckline joining the lining and bodice fabric together leaving open the bottom and start and stop sewing 2 cm away from the CB.  We still need to install the zipper.  Leaving it open will allow you to sew the lining onto the zipper later.

 Clip the bodice at the S and O matchpoints. Turn lining to the inside and press.  At this point you can sew the understitching or not.  We still need to attach the neck stay and facings.  I happened to understitch because I wanted the armhole area complete and intact. 
Plus, once again, it gives it a professional look. So do it if you can.

Along the bottom of the bodice press under the seam allowance for the preparation of the lining finish to the dress.  If however you plan to fully line your dress, attaching the bodice lining to the bodice skirt lining is what you would do instead.  I only wanted to line the bodice because....drum roll...I am lazy.

I baste here because bemberg lining is so slippery and annoying with pins.
Notice how the bottom of the lining is free. 

Bodice-Skirt Join

With the skirt portion, sew the seam joining the bodice.  You will need to match the A seam from bodice with the skirt, and the Z seam joins the notch on the Back piece. Only sew the fabric together with the skirt portion.

Adding Neck Stay and Facings

Attach Interfacing to the piece as are both labelled on the pattern pieces. The corresponding piece labelled "Inner" will be your facings.

With the CF piece with the S matchpoint, you may choose to either cut 1 on the fold or cut 2 and make a centre front seam if you like.  I chose to cut on the fold, because it was easier for me.

CF seam(If you choose to make a CF seam)

Sew with right sides together the two front pieces and do the same to the facings but seperate.
Press out.

Shoulder Seam

There is no matchpoint for the shoulder on the stay, but it is clearly marked on the pattern piece.
With right sides together, sew the interfaced front and back pieces together for each side, sewing your facings in the same way but seperate.

 Attaching the Neck Stay to the bodice

***If you have access to the directions of Butterick 5353 or anything similar, you can essentially use these directions to add the facing/stay assembly to the bodice.

Attaching the interfaced stay on the notched side, with your finished bodice, with right sides together, match CF seam(or CF of the fold) of your stay with bodice CF, S matchpoint notch on stay to the S matchpoint on your bodice, match the O matchpoint on the stay with the O match point on your Back bodice. 

Sew this seam along the entire length of your neck line of your bodice leaving 2 cm open at CB.  Press this seam and press away from the bodice. This should make it easier when you are attaching the zipper and the facing section on the zipper.

With the uninterfaced facing, press under the seam allowance to the wrong side on the notched edge.

Attaching Facing to Stay

With the outer seam of your neck line stay, with right sides together, attach the facing to the stay matching shoulder seams, CF match. Leave open 2 cm at the centre back
Once you have pressed the outer seam, press open and understitch.

Here we have the notched edge attached to the bodice/lining assembly.
See the facing sewn to the unnotched edge of stay?
Please understitch this!
Also, press under the facing to attach to the stay like you would with a shirt neck band. 

Attach zipper

Baste on your zipper.  Match the neck line stay and the Bodice-Skirt Join seam as well so they sit level across from each other.  Remember, this is a really important moment because this will show on the outside, so aesthetics is EVERYTHING.

Make a permanent stitch on your zipper once you are satisfied with your basting positions.

**This may be the most difficult part:  The 2 cm open area will have to be slipstitched into place to close off the lining on the zipper.

Hem finish

At this point, or anytime before the skirt hem area was sewn together, do your hem finish.  You know what happened to me here?  Remember about 1000 words ago I mentioned I might change my hem, well I did, because it was just too long!!!

I serged off 2 inches and will finish with a 1.5 inch hem so it sits where I like it.


Lining Finish

Once you have sewn the lining to the zipper, with the pressed under portion of your bodice lining, prepare to do this:

1. Baste carefully the lining edge to the bodice seam join and prepare to stitch in the ditch, so your stitching line is visible on the lining but non-visible to the outside since you have stitched in the seam.
2. Be adventurous and hand stitch your lining to the seam join.  You can slip-stitch or anything you want just as long as your stitching can't be seen to the outside world.
3. Or heck, just leave it unattached except on the zipper.  Trust me, some 'BIG' clothing companies do this and to me it looks really yucky since the price tag for a run-of-the-mill dress was $300? Cough**Sputter**Hack**Choke**

That was my 2 cents.

And that should be it for this dress.

Yay the front!!

 

The back!  I have a hook and eye at the top of the stay.
Make sure those seams on the back line up!!!!

Oh and yeah, I have a fantabulous brooch.  Just waiting to use it!

BTW, silk taffeta rocks for the bodice and stay assembly.  I did not use taffeta for the skirt, a bottom weight cotton/poly was helpful to create the right drape.

Hey here's a thought.  I should nickname this dress my Louboutin dress since most heels are black with a red heel. Iconic shoes.....yes....good colour scheme...yes.

Bye for now!!!

Jacky Jacquard

Hello!

Well, I have been MIA for awhile only because I have been trying to sew my planned projects plus this heat in July and August is making me feel kind of wonky.  The temperatures have reached around 25-28 here and I feel like passing out.  I then feel really lazy because I can't get any work done anyway, so what a vicious cycle.
 
So, this means I can work either in the morning or later on at night. And, getting another coat made seems really far into the future, but, I decided to tackle a Simplicity pattern that....you got it has been collecting dust in my bin-o-patterns for probably around 3 years.  Yeah, just because I buy them does not mean I get at it right away.  I wish I could....but the reality is,  in my world, I have a combination of

1.  Timing
2. Money
3. Opportunity

Most of the time, they are met, but....anyway...you know.
 
So, earlier in the Spring, May actually, FabricLand came out with this Blushing Antique collection that favoured pink. 

GREAT!!!! 

The thing is, they also had a lot of textures to choose from which made me want to buy a nice pink Jacquard fabric.  I sat on this for about 2 weeks and decided to go back and get enough to make a Spring coat fit for a princess!
The trouble was, when I came back, they said

 ' Some chick bought the last bolt for a wedding..it was around 7 metres.'

WHAT!!!!

I had to go all the way to Abbotsford and get me some Jacquard fabric.  Luckily they had some..a lot of it, so I bought 3 metres.  Thank God for that! 
 
So, up until now, I hummed and hawed about what pattern to use and I chose Simplicity 2311 view B double breasted short coat.  I also had to go through all of my stash and see whether or not I had enough fabric.
 

The drawing of the chick in the middle jacket is what I made.

Now, this coat I ended up putting together in 4 days.  I know, I have sore arms now, but it was worth it.
 
This is definitely a Kate Middleton look for sure, it also needs a cute pair of heels too!
 
To most sewers who have done this kind of thing it is a 'No Brainer'.  I got to focus on my aesthetics more so this time than ever, but....and this is a big but....I feel it fit OK.  I cut out a 16, some wiggle room but it didn't puff me up at all really.
I also have to say the directions were a bit lacking.  If you are a beginner, you may need some navigation as I found that it was missing tidbits here and there.  I normally don't need them but like I was saying...a bit thin.
 
As for the overall looks, I chose white pearlized(plastic) buttons.  A nice gold button would have also worked but I didn't have them.
 
I also brought up the hem to 2 inches instead of their 1.5 inches.  The coat seems more shorter showing more leg, but with a pair of heels it will lengthen them a lot.
 

Front

 


Back..I know I know..with a yoke

 

Button choice

 

Lining colour is a wheaty-gold which my camera is not picking it up correctly.

 

a roll line is actually a dart and I chose the gathered sleeve.

Also, let me add this:  This jacket didn't really need to have a yoke.  I would have preferred princess seams.  I guess for jackets I suppose it's ok, but you know how I feel about them anyway on women's garments.
Also, my jacket does not look wrinkly on me.  The mannequin is not doing it justice as she clearly has no boobs past A cup.
 
I also stitched a 1/4 inch top stitch along the front and collar area.  I also recommend you use fusible interfacing.  Adds the correct amount of stiffness.
 
Anyway, like I said, I need a very cutsey-poo pair of heels for this.  I am sure I have some, if not I have a great excuse to start looking for another pair!

Bye for now!!!

BLUE BOMB Part 2....and a whole lot of Top Stitchery

Well, here we are again....literally.

I got into a craze of different hues of blue because every time I see swatches online I get over zealous and I want to snatch up anything that appeals to me which in the case of blue is almost everything....except

TURQOUISE

YIKES!

GET IT OUT OF HERE!

 

 

So, I ended up deciding over a week of pure agony which hue of blue to buy.  Of course, it had to be a 100% linen content because I just love wearing it, so I went to my old faithful online store Fabrics-store and found a deep shade of blue called Blue Bonnet.  I then proceeded to make a sporty-raglan sleeve type dress that was meant for summer.  I decided to buy the pattern Butterick 6053 on a whim. 

 

 

I did not add a contrasting midriff band!!

 

And like most other projects decided to start making this dress as soon as my linen fabric came in.

 

OK, 3 weeks later, I got everything underway, then went away for a week.  Hmmm...do what I can before I leave.  Of course I didn't even buy the lining.  Most of the time, you may not need a lining for a linen dress because that fabric is so damn comfortable.  But in this case, the pattern called for it, so I went with it..

 

I followed the directions as the topsitching went.  I thought boy this would be fun!  Well......Ahem!

I really had to remember what type of patience this needs remembering that my corsets I made required super straight lines and frequent eye rest breaks. No wavy-gravy lines if I can manage it.

Let me just say, this top stitching really tried my patience, because not only did I have to sew in straight lines, I had to do them triple for every seam line that required it. Plus I used my edge stitching foot using the edge of that foot as a reference for the next line which are only 2 mm apart.  And using that foot saved me!

 

Then came the lining....

 

I understitched everywhere it was needed and it still didn't live up to its promise, so I topstitched again to keep it back.  It worked! Either way, I was so frustrated at this point.  Crazy... no.

The lining on the hem band kept drooping and it royally annoyed me, so yes, more topstitching.

 

You'll see from my photos that linen creases like crazy without any help from anything or anyone.  I ironed the heck out of it, but the fabric still rocks!

 

I feel very comfortable in my dress, it's just that I need help putting it on because my left shoulder is just killing me! Wihich means that I can't bend my arm to help myself in or out of a dress.

 

Anyway here are my finished pics:

 

Front

 

 

 

Back

 

Front Top Stitchery on skirt and midriff band
Colour is true here

Top Stitchery

 

 

 Well, like I said, comfortable, and well fitting, but the fiddle-di-dee work was frustrating.

 

Kids, do try this at home.

 

 

Until next time....

 

Bye

 

 



 

 



BLUE BOMB.....Part 1

Well Well Well....I love Blue.

I know I know.  I don't know why I need so many skirts.  Perhaps I like them because it enhances my height.  Personally, I have got to be the MOST pickiest person when it comes to style, look, colour, fabric prints and on-trends.

Also, let's think about this for a minute...

I have seen prices on skirts in ritzy boutiques and franchise stores and I got to tell you, the price I can make them at and the over abundance of prints available makes me gag at the high prices one can pay for the amount of general

"I can't sew, so I should just settle and buy something."

Well, I can buy so many fabrics at really good prices and the great thing is, is that pencil skirts only need take 1.5 metres of fabric, so BARGAIN!!!

And, as I said before, THE BIG 4 companies pencil skirts vary little when it comes to pencil skirt shapes given that some may add an extra dart in or two or put in a back vent or a sexy front side slit but really, not much difference.  And guess what?  We sometimes pay through the nose in the stores and most of the time hardly anybody notices or cares.

Interesting isn't it?

I happened to take a week off and spend time with family in the East Kooteneys and I found the Jacobean print I have been desperate in finding for a awhile now. To me it has the right shade of blue with the flowers and the fantasy rooster-fowl on it.  Keep in mind, I did buy a quilting cotton for a light weight summer skirt. They work really well for a durable dress shirt too.  Just thought I would put that out there.

Anyway, while I was in the East Kooteneys I also brought home some out of print patterns that are still on trend. 

Like you think I would sew up a storm on something that wreaks of 1976? (Yeah avocado green, brown, orange and red shag carpets....that was it man)

Anyway, I whipped this skirt up with McCalls 3588 view C.

Anyway, I cut out the pattern and seen that there are 4 darts on the front and back each.  I suppose that gives it a 1985 retro charm but luckily, it doesn't really show up too much.

Front

Back view with vent


This is different a 2.25 inch hem. Rather large but OK...
I actually changed it to 2 inches.

Darts in the front.  Like I said, a 1985 retro charm sort of shape.
I am not sure if it will give me a Bhudda belly shape or not.

Serging colour...blue.
I always have the upper loop thread facing towards the CB

Now, here is something to think about.  I could have gone two ways here with a decision about what thread colour I should choose.

1. Think about the major colour that stands out the most.  Use that dominance for your thread colour
2. Use a complimentary match.  It usually exists on the pattern but is not the major dominant colour.

These basic rules should also extend to your serging scheme.  Either way, you can't lose.

In looking at this Jacobean print, mostly, the dominant colour is the dark blue.  I used this as my thread colour as well as my serging finish.  I could have used white since it is the background colour.  But here's the thing, I would not choose it as a topstitch.

Well, why?

Because, it can make the look of the print regress a little plus, you can see a lot of imperfections in techniques (eg: wavy-gravy lines that make your finished look down graded) .  Not what you want!

This is so true when sewing boning channels on corsets.  It is SO important that your sewing lines stay straight!  Not just for looks but, also when this happens, you can create areas of more space which can make your boning material rotate.  Not what you want.

I also kind of cringed with the waist band.  A little dinky in size. If I want a waist band, let me have my belt carriers.  Other wise...let's just forget it and use it as a facing that doesn't add too much freaking bulk.

Anyway, lets focus on BLUE BOMB part 2!!!  I wonder...lets wait and see.


Bye for now!

Karin

Gray Scale World

Hi everyone!

In my last post I mentioned that I would focus on a gray scale type of clothing and I came to think that with the gray dress I purchased Quality up close and this new floral print I thought it would be fitting to embark on a dress for the

"Put-together lady who luncheons type of personality"

 

 

Personally, this is the look I thrive on.  The other thing to think about is 'How am I going to decide which pattern to choose?'

 

Well, that was a piece of cake only because it had to be semi formal and modest. (No low hanging or popping out anything).

Can you imagine??

 

So, with me I buy sooo many patterns it is hard to decide, but I chose New Look 6023, which seem to have enough and FabricLand stopped selling the Simplicity owned patterns except Burda because of some deal that went sour.

I don't tend to always focus on the Big 4, but, sometimes they do have what you need at a price that can't be beat!

 

(Honestly, I always use my blouses from these patterns, so I am not really biased).

 

So, in my short success of my weight reduction I fit nicely into a pattern size 16 and believe it or not, there was room in the armhole, which I had to re-adjust, but HEY!!!

 

I did the yellow dress view D without the belt

This dress fit suprisingly well, and as I said it had a ridiculously huge armhole area.  I also didn't make the neckline as it is seen here mainly because I almost chocked at the high neckline without that facing/border. I turned it in and understitched it.

 

I am not a fan of Mustard yellow.  It has to be a soft yellow, this shade is just rude!!!

 

I also didn't put that self fabric belt on. In my supplies I have a 2.5 cm diameter brass rings and boy, they would be too heavy for this, plus the brass alloy colour didn't work.

 

I also tried putting on the armhole facing/binding and I basted it on, and I looked in the mirror and realised that I had Star Trek puffs or KISS sleeves

 

I don't want to look like a Clingon or anybody from the KISS band.  That look is SO over!  So what I did was serge the edge and press it back and stitch it down.  That reduced the KISS factor right then and there!!

 

Front view

Back view



Midriff back at CB with invisible zipper
And the top/edge stitch too!!! Damn that looks good!



Armhole stitchery

This dress was a good snug fit.  It may look a little wavy-gravy in the pictures but also remember that this mannequin has a 23-26" waist line and an A cup.

 

I don't have that.....

 

But I really loved this print.  I had been waiting to buy it, and the thing is, if you wait...sales will go on!

 

Until next time!!!

 

Bye Bye everybody!!!