Friday, April 27, 2012

Marfy 2410 size 46

Another finished Marfy pattern!!!

Finshed Jacket!

Marfy 2410 conceptual drawing and visual reference

  I looked at the conceptual drawing and I just had to make it!  I believe it is fairly new, and you can get it on the vogue pattern website or through Marfy directly(as of 2012).  I didn't make it in yellow but I got 2 metres of pink cotton that I was planning on making a blazer with that never came to be.  Instead I made this jacket.

As always, with most Marfy patterns you have to add seam allowances and hem allowances.  I had to make this in size 46 which is a tad bit too small so I increased my general 1cm seam allowance to 1.5cm and sewed with 1cm allowance adding an extra 0.5cm at the front, sides, and back. That gave me enough ease to fit snug and right.
As always I drafted in my 2 cm hem allowance and hemmed 1.5cm leaving it a tad bit longer.

 *The zipper seam in the front I drafted a 1.5cm seam allowance to fit the width of the zipper.*

Front zipper, button flaps, 4 buttons. Flaps can extend to either side



This pattern had every piece needed to complete the entire look except the sleeve binding which is easy enough to draft yourself, which you can either use binding or finish it some other way.

As the conceptual drawing suggests on the front decorative flaps, topstitching is visible and quite stylish here.
I did this with the front flaps, front and side front, and side back seams to complete the look. 

* It looks really good when the machine topstitching is sewn with a longer straight stitch.  I usually choose 3.5cm long stitch using and edgestitching foot*

Also, Marfy's stylish approach sometimes leaves sewer's scratching their heads with pattern pieces that appear confusing but really isn't.  With this pattern, I expected to see separate cap sleeve pattern pieces but in fact were drafted in with the side front.  This may appear quite different to normal convention but I assure you, it is a time saver!
The binding on the sleeves I safely cut 2 of (50 x 5) square cm rectangles on the straight grain. Most of the time, bias cut binding is done, but for plain weave fabric it won't make any difference for my use.


For the sleeves, all that was required here was to gather each front and back sections where it states.  The shoulder seam on the front and back piece needs to be pleated at the seam which ties up the job nicely.

* I would mark your pleat, sew the shoulder seam, make your knife pleats on front and back, then gather to fit the stated lengths.*



Binding on sleeve. Hand stitched on the inside.

The areas needed as facings were the waist band section, lapel, under collar, and the pattern piece to face the rest of the length of the zipper.
I did not need to interface the decorative front flaps.  Fabric ended being stiff enough.

* Now, anyone is welcome to line this jacket fully if they want.  I didn't want to, and therefore, serged the collar on the inside instead of lining it.*
Here's the money shot!  Faced sections of jacket, hand hemmed in place


For the supplies all I really used was:

2 m of self fabric (pink quilting cotton)
A standard 23cm long separating zipper
4- 20mm buttons of any type
Pink sewing thread
Sew-in interfacing on collar, lapel, button flaps and waist band and inside zipper front facing.

Well, there you have it in a nutshell.  Any questions?