The Perfect Blouse

The Perfect Blouse Project

 

*******************October 15, 2014********************* 

 

You know, sometimes I think to myself:

 

"What the hell, why can't I ever get all features that I want in one clothing piece?"

 

 

I guess the answer is simple because I would imagine that most companies want you to buy a lot of different things to maximize their profits which is fine, but I don't like wasting money.

 

Then the thought occurred to me that if I can't get it by buying it, then I should just go for broke and design it myself.

 

I mean I have a lot of patterns that I bought, and I can use existing ideas from those and implement others of my own.

 

Now you are probably thinking that I have enough white blouses and you would be correct, but I just want a bit more as usual....

 

So, this is what I have in mind:

 

1. Princess seams or shaping darts  (give options for both)
2. NO YOKE!!!!! (OMG-NO WAY!)
3. French cuffs
4. Thin front self facing button band
5. Tailored fit on side seams
6. Long sleeves and other sleeve options
7. Neckband and collar
8. NO FRONT FACING!! (Can't stand these)
9. NO BUST DARTS!!! (Bulky and goofy for my body type)
10. Curvature of CF button band?

 

 OK, here are my reasons for doing what I am doing for the CLASSIC shirt:

Princess Seams or shaping darts

This feature is fantastic! It can make us all look thinner and have a smarter tailored fit line not anything like wearing a potato sac.

I hate yokes on dress shirts for women:

The plain fact is, for myself, I truly hate this feature on shirts. It is fine on jackets or on men's shirts, but I feel that women don't need to look so masculine in the shoulder area.  What I think is that if it is absent, then a shirt can accentuate those feminine features a bit more.
The thing is, all clothing brands do this for their stock inventory and it is a bit tiring.

French Cuffs

This type of classic cuff can look good on a full or 3/4 length sleeve.( This with nice buttons?!!) I can't understand why pattern companies with available patterns now have not given an option for this. (Still, what's the big deal? And, what are you waiting for?)

I hate thick front facings on the CF of shirts:

Often times I have made blouses that were neckband absent, and to me that spells a front facing that also couples as the button band to accommodate the collar.  I used to think that it was way easier to assemble a shirt with this feature, but as it turns out that the front facing is a constant pain in the you-know-what to deal with because even after washing and ironing, it never lays flat and looks ugh! messy! Not to mention the interfacing that gets the brunt of the wear and tear and loses its efficacy over time.

Tailored Seams:

Well, as I may have mentioned it before, I think that I prefer a tighter fit when it comes to clothes.  As I also said, I don't think I am going for the potato sac look.  If you have a waist line then show it, don't hide it!

Sleeve options:

I am wanting to give more options for different sleeve lengths here for versatility. Why not?

No bust darts:

For all the patterns I have that I have made that had this feature, I find that they are too large and where you finish the tip of the dart, and I try it on for size, I always get air poofs at the bust point no matter how I shorten or lengthen the dart.  For aesthetics, wearing the shirt, the outline of the bust dart really looks goofy on me and bulky.
 

The only thing I am on the fence about is the curvature of the hem. I do like some curvature, but not crazy steep.
I also have no preference for a side front or side back piece as this is just fine for me.

For the tenth input, I like some openness at the top, but enough to show a nice necklace and to accentuate the collar bone, which makes for an attractive, sexy look that is, I feel subliminal (latent) to one's subconscious whether one is aware of it or not.

 

 BLOUSE 1

I see some of my input missing here, but I can add them
I may imagine there is a yoke here, but I will pretend it is absent
I don't see any princess seams here.
I love the slim fit sleeves!



The other thing I think I should point out here is that I don't exactly have a boyish figure in the bust area.  However, smart seams can sometimes give the impression that one can appear slimmer and not so busty if that is your goal.  This smart seaming can give the illusion to elongate the torso, which by the way makes for a smaller bust image and possibly to some a more clean and polished look. 

 

Another look I found on the internet was truly angelic.  It is not a CLASSIC collared blouse by any means but, I have to say with my taller frame it is a clear winner in the sense that it embodies my personal taste:

1. Two layered peplum- CHECK
2. Flowing ribbon tie- CHECK
3. Long sleeves with a French cuff option-CHECK
4. Pleated neckline front-CHECK
5. Zipper in side or back aka latent-CHECK
6. Pencil skirt-CHECKMATE!

 
 BLOUSE 2
 

The is cute with a capital C
Very little design input.
A tighter sleeve fit with French cuffs and no gathers I think

This is my chic galore style!  Let's input some [input designer name here] fancy shoes and [insert Prada here] purse in this look not to mention the big bitch sunglasses and fancy jewelry!
(Oh Karin, you and your wish list of endless things)

BLOUSE 3

This has my fave: French cuffs or mock ones?
I am warming up to surplice necklines but in my example I will need it closed a bit more.
 

For this blouse, I can't tell if the shirt is actually asymmetrical or it just has a fancy front tie that makes it fabulous!  I suppose we can figure that out later....
This blouse also has 3/4 length sleeves with a neckband and collar with none of that stupid thick front facing band I hate so much.  I suppose I can re-arrange this to have a midriff band with a tie...the possibilities are endless!  WHOA overload of ideas!
Of course this setup up spells it all right:  You need the right kind of chunky fancy necklace to pull it all together. Nice.....

OK!

For BLOUSE 1

Now, to get started, I will need some basic tools and general know-how of some basic math concepts.

 

First of all, we need basic supplies:

T square, French curve, tracing paper or vellum, 2H pencil, protractor and a basic ruler.

I know, as soon as I mention math in my experience it makes others feel timid, but no sweat, it is fairly basic.
The main thing about forming natural lines and curves related to a body shape is in the mathematical  value of Euler's number 'e'.  This is reflected also as an inverse function as the natural log (ln) which I think French curves exploit.  The question is "Why should I care? ....and please get on with it".
I am only doing this so that we can understand the truing process and its origins.

Aside from that, we need to get started.

1. I measured the length of the front of a front pattern piece self facing and it measures 58 cm.  Good.  We got a line.
2. I want the finished width of the button band to be 2.3 cm. This means that I need to measure that x 2.  Basically, the first fold line will occur 2.3 cm inwards and then again because it needs to be folded twice.
3. I will then need to mark the CF line by half the width of 2.3 cm from the last foldline. So, 1.15 cm exactly.
4. I also need to be aware of what curvature of the f(x)=ln(x) natural curve the front is based on. Or put another way, look at my French curve and figure out what section it fits.
5. Measure the shoulder angle from the vertical. The last curve point and the vertical intersect is the endpoint of your shoulder seam.  The length is the line joining the two.  No guys, it is not parallel to the bottom of your blouse.

 

 Here are my work in progress pictures-not all turned out because I got heavily into the whole drama and excitement of it all.

This is my vellum and drafting supplies. Have to estabish the straight line first
 
 
 
 
 
 

Here's me drafting the angle of the shoulder seam from the horizontal intersecting the vertical
(hint: 12 degrees)

 



Front piece with self facing for button band

The bulk of the work.  The little add-ons that may make it what it will be

 

The asymmetrical set in sleeve. I have this at full length to my wrist
and will have a French cuff attached to it.
I have the wrist area at a length of 31cm which was narrow but comfortable

 

 

 

Back piece cut on the fold.  I tapered my side seam as well as putting in shaping darts in the centre of the back.





So yes, I slaved for about 2 weeks getting one of these blouses (BLOUSE 1) "Karin" approved.  I am so glad I have a good solid scientific background though, otherwise I would have thought twice.  Not impossible just I don't look forward to struggling with it.
 
A couple of details that I did change slightly is the collar and neckband.  First, I always use solid woven fabrics for these blouses so I decided that I should use the symmetry and cut both on the fold.  I then decided to increase the width of the collar by 1cm!  I know, it doesn't seem like a lot but we will see!
I also decided that I will keep a straight hem.  What the hell, it will be tucked in for the most part and I will most likely smooth out the side seam a little since I drafted such a sharp end.


As I am in no way a professional at this as of yet, I did follow the curvature guides on my already bought commercial patterns.  That made it go a lot faster since I have no CAD software to help me yet.

Now we need a toile fit for this pattern...the final step to perfection!

 

We will work on BLOUSE 2 next!!! Stay tuned....