Looking at quality up-close

Let's have a look....shall we?!!!

 

 

A while back I may have mentioned sewing projects that can exhibit store-bought features that make it look professional?  This occurs in the finish and the sewing.  I want to quality assure this dress that I bought on sale under $100.00 and describe how well we can do as home sewers without fancy industrial machines and how to damn well rival the techniques.  Now, it occured to me that most of the time I have saved a crap-tonne of money this way and I haven't paid horrific designer prices but if you want....be my guest.  I just want you to be aware of what to look for so that you know the difference.

 

I may not have covered all the QA inspected points but I am going through the scope of what this dress can offer.



Keep in mind that I am not here to point the finger or annoy anyone, I just want anyone who didn't know what to look for when choosing decent to well made quality clothing  so that you know what you're spending your hard earned money on.

Point 1-Seam alignment

For the L and R sides of the front and back bodice joining to make to shouder seam, take a look.  This goes for any other seam join in R and L sides of other areas of a dress.

Left side shouder area.  Seams match at junction!!

Right side shoulder area.  Seams match at junction!!

Gold Star!! This passes point 1

Point 2-Neck line facing match

At the top of the centre back, the L and R sides of the facing must be of equal length and width. 
I have stressed about this so many times and how to make sure they do not get mis-aligned.  Anything you show to the outside world has to show little to no flaws as possible.

You can see the invisible zipper pull that has the L and R haves in line with
each other.

Gold Star!! This passes point 2

Point 3-Topstitching integrity

Although this dress did not have a lot of top-stitching, the attachment of belt carriers to the fashion fabric should have a consistant width.

Consistant 6 mm topstitch of belt carrier

Gold star!! Dress passes point 3

Point 4-Serging tension and finish

To use a serge-shut technique that I frequently use, I know how the tension of the serge shoud be.  Keep in mind that some fabrics are difficult to deal with, but this is a woven fabric and should not present too many problems.



This seam looks like it was done all on the serger with a chain stitch.  Tension is
a bit tight



Lining chain stitch serge finish (5 thread serger).
Upper looper thread a bit tight.(Drags lower thread down)

Lose 1/2 point (1/4 each for fashoin fabric and lining) on Point 4

Point 5-Understitching

Understitching is important when you don't want your lining to pop out above your fashion fabric.
Surely in the back near the zipper, I thought that it could have gone a bit farther.

Understitchng done well on front bodice

Understitching stops a long away from centre back. Why?

Lose 1/4 for premature end on Point 5

Point 6- Hem and finish

Here, the centre back seam has both sides serged seperately for a fuss-free zip installation.  I do this all the time.  The hem is a consistant 1.25 inches

The serge finish is correct in tension and colour scheme

Blind hemmer looks like it is a bit loose in its execution.
Is this correct?

Typical 1.25 inch hem.  Fine with that.

Lose 1/4 point for blind hemmer machine execution on point 6.  Blind hemmer machines can be fussy.

Point 7- Zipper Installation and finish

This is one of those major points where it is imperative that we must make sure an invisible zipper looks like a seam to the outside world.  If not, we haven't sewn close enough to the edge of the zipper tape.

The lining attachment is safest when it lies farther away from the raised portion of a closed zipper so that we don't want it to catch.

This is consistantly sewn at equal distances from the raised portion of the wrong side of the zipper.  As in point 2, the outside zipper is not to be seen.  That is good.

Gold Star. Dress passes point 7

Point 8-Thread tails if found

Shouder seam with a netting re-enforcement.  Cut your tails!!!

Lining along CB where end of zip to bottom. Serge shut technique
as in starts into the seam allowance.  Cut your tails!!!

The dress loses a 1/4 point as this is not a serious flaw to the outside world but I would have taken the time to clean this up personally.  I know I nit-pick.

Point 9-Structural sewing execution

What I mean here is any construction to manipulate shape as is drafted into the pattern ie the dart.  This was noticed on the lining and was conspicuous enough to notice what was going on.

The tip end of the dart seams bungled and knotted plus
it was not sewn off the end of the fabric.  Makes for a
not-so-sharp end

Lose 1/4 point on dart execution.  Not a huge concern as it is the lining.

Point 10-Centre Back Zipper tip

Here is the last point I shall make here.  This is what I enjoy seeing.  The edge of the zipper tape was sewn right to the tip essentially removing the need for a hook-and-eye closure.  Plus it is even when closed.

This is a great execution!

Well...How did this dress do out of 10?  (8.5/10)  Well done you pass!!!

This is a well made dress for less than $100 per item.  Keep in mind that nobody will be perfect and trying to do so may drive someone crazy.  Murphy's Law is in charge here most of the time and can't be helped.

Thank you all, until the next post....