Jacky Jacquard

Hello!

Well, I have been MIA for awhile only because I have been trying to sew my planned projects plus this heat in July and August is making me feel kind of wonky.  The temperatures have reached around 25-28 here and I feel like passing out.  I then feel really lazy because I can't get any work done anyway, so what a vicious cycle.
 
So, this means I can work either in the morning or later on at night. And, getting another coat made seems really far into the future, but, I decided to tackle a Simplicity pattern that....you got it has been collecting dust in my bin-o-patterns for probably around 3 years.  Yeah, just because I buy them does not mean I get at it right away.  I wish I could....but the reality is,  in my world, I have a combination of

1.  Timing
2. Money
3. Opportunity

Most of the time, they are met, but....anyway...you know.
 
So, earlier in the Spring, May actually, FabricLand came out with this Blushing Antique collection that favoured pink. 

GREAT!!!! 

The thing is, they also had a lot of textures to choose from which made me want to buy a nice pink Jacquard fabric.  I sat on this for about 2 weeks and decided to go back and get enough to make a Spring coat fit for a princess!
The trouble was, when I came back, they said

 ' Some chick bought the last bolt for a wedding..it was around 7 metres.'

WHAT!!!!

I had to go all the way to Abbotsford and get me some Jacquard fabric.  Luckily they had some..a lot of it, so I bought 3 metres.  Thank God for that! 
 
So, up until now, I hummed and hawed about what pattern to use and I chose Simplicity 2311 view B double breasted short coat.  I also had to go through all of my stash and see whether or not I had enough fabric.
 

The drawing of the chick in the middle jacket is what I made.

Now, this coat I ended up putting together in 4 days.  I know, I have sore arms now, but it was worth it.
 
This is definitely a Kate Middleton look for sure, it also needs a cute pair of heels too!
 
To most sewers who have done this kind of thing it is a 'No Brainer'.  I got to focus on my aesthetics more so this time than ever, but....and this is a big but....I feel it fit OK.  I cut out a 16, some wiggle room but it didn't puff me up at all really.
I also have to say the directions were a bit lacking.  If you are a beginner, you may need some navigation as I found that it was missing tidbits here and there.  I normally don't need them but like I was saying...a bit thin.
 
As for the overall looks, I chose white pearlized(plastic) buttons.  A nice gold button would have also worked but I didn't have them.
 
I also brought up the hem to 2 inches instead of their 1.5 inches.  The coat seems more shorter showing more leg, but with a pair of heels it will lengthen them a lot.
 

Front

 


Back..I know I know..with a yoke

 

Button choice

 

Lining colour is a wheaty-gold which my camera is not picking it up correctly.

 

a roll line is actually a dart and I chose the gathered sleeve.

Also, let me add this:  This jacket didn't really need to have a yoke.  I would have preferred princess seams.  I guess for jackets I suppose it's ok, but you know how I feel about them anyway on women's garments.
Also, my jacket does not look wrinkly on me.  The mannequin is not doing it justice as she clearly has no boobs past A cup.
 
I also stitched a 1/4 inch top stitch along the front and collar area.  I also recommend you use fusible interfacing.  Adds the correct amount of stiffness.
 
Anyway, like I said, I need a very cutsey-poo pair of heels for this.  I am sure I have some, if not I have a great excuse to start looking for another pair!

Bye for now!!!

BLUE BOMB Part 2....and a whole lot of Top Stitchery

Well, here we are again....literally.

I got into a craze of different hues of blue because every time I see swatches online I get over zealous and I want to snatch up anything that appeals to me which in the case of blue is almost everything....except

TURQOUISE

YIKES!

GET IT OUT OF HERE!

 

 

So, I ended up deciding over a week of pure agony which hue of blue to buy.  Of course, it had to be a 100% linen content because I just love wearing it, so I went to my old faithful online store Fabrics-store and found a deep shade of blue called Blue Bonnet.  I then proceeded to make a sporty-raglan sleeve type dress that was meant for summer.  I decided to buy the pattern Butterick 6053 on a whim. 

 

 

I did not add a contrasting midriff band!!

 

And like most other projects decided to start making this dress as soon as my linen fabric came in.

 

OK, 3 weeks later, I got everything underway, then went away for a week.  Hmmm...do what I can before I leave.  Of course I didn't even buy the lining.  Most of the time, you may not need a lining for a linen dress because that fabric is so damn comfortable.  But in this case, the pattern called for it, so I went with it..

 

I followed the directions as the topsitching went.  I thought boy this would be fun!  Well......Ahem!

I really had to remember what type of patience this needs remembering that my corsets I made required super straight lines and frequent eye rest breaks. No wavy-gravy lines if I can manage it.

Let me just say, this top stitching really tried my patience, because not only did I have to sew in straight lines, I had to do them triple for every seam line that required it. Plus I used my edge stitching foot using the edge of that foot as a reference for the next line which are only 2 mm apart.  And using that foot saved me!

 

Then came the lining....

 

I understitched everywhere it was needed and it still didn't live up to its promise, so I topstitched again to keep it back.  It worked! Either way, I was so frustrated at this point.  Crazy... no.

The lining on the hem band kept drooping and it royally annoyed me, so yes, more topstitching.

 

You'll see from my photos that linen creases like crazy without any help from anything or anyone.  I ironed the heck out of it, but the fabric still rocks!

 

I feel very comfortable in my dress, it's just that I need help putting it on because my left shoulder is just killing me! Wihich means that I can't bend my arm to help myself in or out of a dress.

 

Anyway here are my finished pics:

 

Front

 

 

 

Back

 

Front Top Stitchery on skirt and midriff band
Colour is true here

Top Stitchery

 

 

 Well, like I said, comfortable, and well fitting, but the fiddle-di-dee work was frustrating.

 

Kids, do try this at home.

 

 

Until next time....

 

Bye

 

 



 

 



BLUE BOMB.....Part 1

Well Well Well....I love Blue.

I know I know.  I don't know why I need so many skirts.  Perhaps I like them because it enhances my height.  Personally, I have got to be the MOST pickiest person when it comes to style, look, colour, fabric prints and on-trends.

Also, let's think about this for a minute...

I have seen prices on skirts in ritzy boutiques and franchise stores and I got to tell you, the price I can make them at and the over abundance of prints available makes me gag at the high prices one can pay for the amount of general

"I can't sew, so I should just settle and buy something."

Well, I can buy so many fabrics at really good prices and the great thing is, is that pencil skirts only need take 1.5 metres of fabric, so BARGAIN!!!

And, as I said before, THE BIG 4 companies pencil skirts vary little when it comes to pencil skirt shapes given that some may add an extra dart in or two or put in a back vent or a sexy front side slit but really, not much difference.  And guess what?  We sometimes pay through the nose in the stores and most of the time hardly anybody notices or cares.

Interesting isn't it?

I happened to take a week off and spend time with family in the East Kooteneys and I found the Jacobean print I have been desperate in finding for a awhile now. To me it has the right shade of blue with the flowers and the fantasy rooster-fowl on it.  Keep in mind, I did buy a quilting cotton for a light weight summer skirt. They work really well for a durable dress shirt too.  Just thought I would put that out there.

Anyway, while I was in the East Kooteneys I also brought home some out of print patterns that are still on trend. 

Like you think I would sew up a storm on something that wreaks of 1976? (Yeah avocado green, brown, orange and red shag carpets....that was it man)

Anyway, I whipped this skirt up with McCalls 3588 view C.

Anyway, I cut out the pattern and seen that there are 4 darts on the front and back each.  I suppose that gives it a 1985 retro charm but luckily, it doesn't really show up too much.

Front

Back view with vent


This is different a 2.25 inch hem. Rather large but OK...
I actually changed it to 2 inches.

Darts in the front.  Like I said, a 1985 retro charm sort of shape.
I am not sure if it will give me a Bhudda belly shape or not.

Serging colour...blue.
I always have the upper loop thread facing towards the CB

Now, here is something to think about.  I could have gone two ways here with a decision about what thread colour I should choose.

1. Think about the major colour that stands out the most.  Use that dominance for your thread colour
2. Use a complimentary match.  It usually exists on the pattern but is not the major dominant colour.

These basic rules should also extend to your serging scheme.  Either way, you can't lose.

In looking at this Jacobean print, mostly, the dominant colour is the dark blue.  I used this as my thread colour as well as my serging finish.  I could have used white since it is the background colour.  But here's the thing, I would not choose it as a topstitch.

Well, why?

Because, it can make the look of the print regress a little plus, you can see a lot of imperfections in techniques (eg: wavy-gravy lines that make your finished look down graded) .  Not what you want!

This is so true when sewing boning channels on corsets.  It is SO important that your sewing lines stay straight!  Not just for looks but, also when this happens, you can create areas of more space which can make your boning material rotate.  Not what you want.

I also kind of cringed with the waist band.  A little dinky in size. If I want a waist band, let me have my belt carriers.  Other wise...let's just forget it and use it as a facing that doesn't add too much freaking bulk.

Anyway, lets focus on BLUE BOMB part 2!!!  I wonder...lets wait and see.


Bye for now!

Karin

Gray Scale World

Hi everyone!

In my last post I mentioned that I would focus on a gray scale type of clothing and I came to think that with the gray dress I purchased Quality up close and this new floral print I thought it would be fitting to embark on a dress for the

"Put-together lady who luncheons type of personality"

 

 

Personally, this is the look I thrive on.  The other thing to think about is 'How am I going to decide which pattern to choose?'

 

Well, that was a piece of cake only because it had to be semi formal and modest. (No low hanging or popping out anything).

Can you imagine??

 

So, with me I buy sooo many patterns it is hard to decide, but I chose New Look 6023, which seem to have enough and FabricLand stopped selling the Simplicity owned patterns except Burda because of some deal that went sour.

I don't tend to always focus on the Big 4, but, sometimes they do have what you need at a price that can't be beat!

 

(Honestly, I always use my blouses from these patterns, so I am not really biased).

 

So, in my short success of my weight reduction I fit nicely into a pattern size 16 and believe it or not, there was room in the armhole, which I had to re-adjust, but HEY!!!

 

I did the yellow dress view D without the belt

This dress fit suprisingly well, and as I said it had a ridiculously huge armhole area.  I also didn't make the neckline as it is seen here mainly because I almost chocked at the high neckline without that facing/border. I turned it in and understitched it.

 

I am not a fan of Mustard yellow.  It has to be a soft yellow, this shade is just rude!!!

 

I also didn't put that self fabric belt on. In my supplies I have a 2.5 cm diameter brass rings and boy, they would be too heavy for this, plus the brass alloy colour didn't work.

 

I also tried putting on the armhole facing/binding and I basted it on, and I looked in the mirror and realised that I had Star Trek puffs or KISS sleeves

 

I don't want to look like a Clingon or anybody from the KISS band.  That look is SO over!  So what I did was serge the edge and press it back and stitch it down.  That reduced the KISS factor right then and there!!

 

Front view

Back view



Midriff back at CB with invisible zipper
And the top/edge stitch too!!! Damn that looks good!



Armhole stitchery

This dress was a good snug fit.  It may look a little wavy-gravy in the pictures but also remember that this mannequin has a 23-26" waist line and an A cup.

 

I don't have that.....

 

But I really loved this print.  I had been waiting to buy it, and the thing is, if you wait...sales will go on!

 

Until next time!!!

 

Bye Bye everybody!!!

 



IN THE RED

Hey folks!


Well, it has been a awhile since my last post. 

Yeah, blame it on school...that's right. 

Well, anyway, I have got to say that I don't have a lot of red coloured clothes.  I decided on doing this while I was unsuccessfully trying to find a burgundy coloured purse in just the right shade and size for my girly look and then, it got me thinking that I should make clothes in this colour, as long as it is the right shade of burgundy.

Well, try to get this done during a busy stint of school terms and it sits there for like forever!!!!

So, as I mentioned before I was going to Hamel's to pick up the last of the French reproduction print in the Red/Gold colour and I got there just in time to buy 2 metres of it because that truely was the last of it! [Insert Nelson Muntz laugh here]

As I said it before....I am the bitch that took it all!

I have this in the other colour too!

And as you may have guessed it, I made a skirt out of it.  What's left is the chance to make some pillow cases or another skirt maybe.  But I want to look chic during the summer months.  Oh, and let's not forget fashionable.  It's a must!!!!!

So, what I made from this is the McCalls pattern 3830 in view D knee length.  I did however change the hem length to 1.25 inches instead of 2.25 inches as was the recommended hem.  Skirts are so easy.  Quick if you really do a bare bones shell, but here I did seam topstitching in a beige-gold colour which was nice.  I also put in a black invisible zipper only because I was too lazy to get to the store to buy a burgundy colour match...oh well, it was still complementary.  Classic pencil skirt.  I have plenty of other patterns and I must say that the patterns don't vary that much.  Still works. 

Slightly sporty look.

Now, as for the other item that is included in this post...Vogue 8972



View A. I did not use the cap sleeves.



Front

Back

 This dress was fine in its own right had I chosen a non stretchy fabric.  I bought a jersey lining to match the fashion fabric but honestly I hate jerseys!  The dress turned out a bit floppy, because it is actually too big!!!!  I lost more weight and I was too far in to make adjustments, but that is for another day.  Otherwise, I should make it out of a linen or cotton blend.  Otherwise it is a nice dress!!!
Would I make it again?  Sure, but a better fabric.

Here is something that I accomplished here...I understitched the armhole!!!  Tough but not impossible!

Print detail.

Well, since I focused on reds, I am about to embark on greyscale....wait for it!


Bye!!!

Spring has come...sort of...still cold!

Well, I have to say that 2 skirts involving the arrival of the vernal equinox has put me in the mood for French style prints.

Let me say, when I started these in mid-March, I had plenty of things on the go.  I was dealing with a school final exam, resident hummingbirds that sip me out of a house and home, work and the usual things that clog up our daily routine but I managed to keep trekking on with my projects.

First off, let me express my love for antiquated French prints.  One of them is Toile du Jouy, which has been kicking around since the 18th century and that are available in many textures and colours. So, this means it really has never gone out of style and it is so popular for home decorating that you can extend that to making garments because I know that some décor fabrics are not that heavy and is acceptable for garment use.

I also went back  to Hamel's Fabrics which technically is a quilting store, but, as I said, you can use quilting cottons for garments and I looked under the Floral prints and found this print:

Yeah, I'm the bitch that took the last of this printed cotton.

Isn't it lovely??!!!!  They have it a red-cranberry background which I will be going back for(well...duh) really soon.

Here are the company's view of the skirts:

 

And the Toile du Jouy that I bought which was a heavier cotton:

And, this brought forth 2 new skirts to make for the warmer weather look, looking chic, style appropriate, and an all round knock-out.

I can't get enough of Toile du Jouy it's sickening!  I also have my bedroom quilt in this and another skirt that I had made for me about 11 years ago, which is awesome and still wear today and my everyday go-to skirt.

For the grayscale Toile I used Simplicity 2257 in view C, which I changed some things in the general construction:

1. Made the belt carriers wider instead of sewing them more in the centre of the yoke front and back.
2. DID NOT add that gruesome wide trim they had on the cover picture.  It may have been better if it was not so wide.
3. Edge-stitched the yoke facings to the skirt seam as you would with a neckband on a blouse 
4. Serge finished all of my seam edges because this skirt wasn't lined.
5. Hand sewn my makeshift blind stitch.  I REALLY want a blind hemmer machine!

For the other skirt I chose to redo Simplicity 5259 view F in size 16. As you may recall it was 1 of 3 black skirt/white flower series but this time I just wanted a more simpler one which the fabric print can do the talking for me and not the embroidery statements I have done.

Here are the close-ups of the changes that I made to Simplicity 2257

Edge-stitched belt carriers on the seam for skirt and facing for a wider space
for belts of varying widths.
This method didn't cause my machine to spit, sputter and seize up  with the bulk of the carriers and the yoke!

Edge-stitched facing on the seam line like a neckband facing on a blouse

Left biased hand stitched blind hem.  (I am left handed)

So, that is it for this particular Spring run.  I have more coming! 

Stay tuned!!!

Spring/Summer Look Butterick 6025 View C

Okay, I did mention this before in a previous post saying that I couldn't find the fabric that escaped me for some reason traveling to all the stores 2 towns over, and out of the corner of my eye I found what I was looking for, plus FabricLand was having a sale, and....

What's a girl to do?

I am basically finishing this off, since I wasn't exactly satisfied 100% the last time around.  I also reasoned with myself that since I had an already made peplum top, I should extend it to a summery type dress and the thing is...I can't have enough dresses!

Do I have to rent out a larger apartment with a larger closet just for my use....Of course!

So, I chose to put together view C which is the longest version that turned out really well for me.

As you recall:

Made this knee length view C

 
Now, I have this fabric that is similar but a lot more busy.  I had to buy a quilting cotton, which I love using for garments but the thing is, it is not wide enough for my uses most of the time. Luckily, I was fine, but I would reserve this fabric choice for shirts and slim fitting clothes like pencil skirts.  If you go for a more outlandish baggy type of clothing you may be out of luck.

As for the lining, I bought a cream coloured dotted Swiss cotton which I can honestly say is a lot like a cotton voile but a tad bit heavier.  It worked out great because the texture of the lining was really soft.  So that equals comfort on a fitted dress.

Front sewn pleats-ignore the blue bomb



Front view

Bottom hem of fashion fabric and lining

Back view-where is the zipper?

 

Top of zipper. Best I have done yet...even and hidden

Lining on the invisible zipper, and see the light fabric see-thoroughness??

I can't believe this fabric showed up for me to buy!  It wasn't there before but hey...timing right?

Anyway, this dress was really easy to put together.  I also made this a size 16 with a woven fabric, as if I used a knit fabric I would be cutting out a 14.

Well, that is it for now...I think I will be purchasing a Frenchy mannequin so that reviews and views are easier for a better perspective for everyone.  I got to get it out-of-town!  It's coming stay tuned!

Karin