Butterick 5404 View A handbag

***Discontinued Pattern....whatever...****

Well, another project documented on subjects that roam free in the wild just outside my door!
(Well, a 20 to 40  minute drive away and we have spotted some of them no joke!).

But seriously, I have always wanted to embroider butterflies for awhile now and I started this project between semesters and didn't finish until...March...I think...of this year.

Now, usually, I get accurate colours of subjects in a variety of reference books that I own and one of them was the Lone Pine Published Butterflies of British Columbia, by John Acorn and Ian Sheldon  and the subjects I chose were:

1. Mourning Cloak (Nymphalis antiopa)
2. Hydapse Fritillary (Speyeria hydapse)
3. Pale Swallowtail (Papilio eurymedon)
4. Silvery Blue (Glaucopsyche lygdamus)
5. Sweet violets (Viola odorata)
6. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)
7. English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

The thing is, you can't spot these all at the same time unfortunetely, but, butterflies are just so cute!

The other thing I would like to mention here is that when you decide to embroider insects and other animals, it is always best to put them as you would see them true-to-life by movement or appearances of scale or weight of the subject.  You can also give them emotion by choosing the right angle of eye coordination etc etc.
We all know that the work put into it isn't real and can't mimic real life subjects 100% but we sure can try as much as we can!

Okay, as for the nuts and bolts of the operation, putting together a bag by Butterick shouldn't cause anyone to pull their hair out, but what I will show is the alterations I made to the square shaped bag that can pretty well go with any damn outfit. 
Granted, this bag didn't have a huge area to work with and that is either a God-Send or a nightmare. Smaller areas mean I can finish up sooner but subjects then lose a lot of real life detail-major trade off)

Onto the progress pictures:

Mourning Cloak finished

Finishing up Lavander

Pale Swallowtail progress



Finished work on bag. The fritillary on the violets gives the impression that the butterfly is weighing down the flower.
The bend in the stem is the result of the weight of the fritillay.

So, as I was pointing out, the fritillary is bending the stem by its own weight because this butterfly is feeding on nectar and is probably travelling from flower to flower.  The Silvery Blue is angled in flight and facing downwards because the butterfly is coming down to feed as well.  It also looks as though the Pale Swallowtail is leaving the scene by its particular angle in flight. 
Anyway something to think about.  Of course all of that is up to each person's interpretation but that was my intention.

I did use cotton broadcloth for this bag so it turned out floppier than I wanted it to, but it still worked. And don't forget medium weight sew-in interfacing and buckram interfacing for the tab closure. 
I also used the pattern suggested magnetic snap tab for a closure.
I used a plum coloured plain weave silk shot with gold for the lining, which the pictures didn't turn out well because of continuous cloudy days here...sorry, I will try again.

Anyway, a simple project used on serious shopping rounds...when I can...

Thanks

Karin

McCalls 3830 Skirt

View E-shortest one!

Hey, since I am between classes, I might as well make another skirt for the going-out-to-dinner mini skirt (with fab boots or wedges) or perhaps the ideal look for the typical mall rat at any usual shopping centre. 

But here is where my imagination takes flight sometimes.  It usually happens when I have enough fabric left over in my storage for anything to come into existance, so, I go on an embroider bender and try and finish up any projects that I can do so that I can free up some valuable square footage in my apartment.

So, since my last black skirt was black with white lillies, I  used Trish Burr's Long and Short Stitch embroidery book template for my mini skirt and went with the arum lily project.  Now, keep in mind I do have my own pictures to create my own templates but it was just so much quicker. 

(Anyway, Trish does some good projects in her book, so thank you)

Now, I also must confess that this idea spawned even earlier than I realized.  When I bought the DVD to the 'Other Boelyn Girl', Anne Boelyn had a couple of arum lillies on one of her stomachers in a scene.  However, I didn't choose to do that particular arum lily but actually settled on Trish's lily.  This looks a lot like the species ' Spathiphyllum sp' but may be another of the type like 'Arum maculatum'.  Either way, this plant belongs to the Arum family (Araceae).(AIR-A-CEE-E)

Anyway, the size of the flower was right for the mini skirt.  It didn't take me 3 weeks, but less than one.  Yes, I guess this was a "quick and easy" project, but still finding myself back to the fabric store buying invisible zippers for the closures to dresses and skirts.( And you may well have guessed that I like making skirts, handbags and fancy dresses.)

So, after completing the hand work I always buy the prescribed colours for the project and end up using way less than required.  I don't get that.  So, here are my progess pictures:

Trace out and place drawing on fabric




 






Out line back split stitch and begin work









Near completion


As you can see my trace for the leaf of the arum lily is somewhat faded.  This is the part that gets me.  I usually have to keep redrawing the outline until I can do a split backstitch on it especially on black fabrics
In the picture below, work is completed but next step is to get rid of that nasty hoop crease left on the outside of the work.

Completed

As for the rest of the skirt, all the hard work is done and what is left is the construction-to-completion jobs.  So, as you may have guessed, I do put in 8" invisible zippers in matching colours, this one being black.  Easy to find anywhere.  So, I hemmed the bottom at 2 " or (5.08 cm) instead of the pattern prescribed 2-1/4 ".  I just needed it to be a bit longer.

2 " (5.08 cm) hem hand stitched

When adding optional belt carriers, a common rookie mistake of mine was to let the weight of the machine foot to keep it in place while sewing in the permanent stitch.  I must say, DO NOT do this!!!  Basting is the way to go. I don't want to say how crooked your carriers can look if you don't baste them in place.

I also don't like the companies instructions on how to construct and sew the carriers until finished.  I have another way that works better.  Until then, I won't do it their way.

Basting on belt carriers.

Okay, that is it for now.  The skirt looked  exactly like the finished picture from McCall's with a silly arum lily slapped on the left front.  More pictures updated soon.  But it's done!

Bye for now.

Marfy 9263 size 48 Completed!!! Attack of the Dog Roses

Another project done....well I actually finished this project a year ago (July 2011) but didn't get to document it until now because of 2 failed hard drives and lost data but we are getting it back slowly.

Okay, so, as you know Marfy patterns aren't for beginners but skirts are quite easy to put together if you

1. Follow and match points of letters to letters and notches from each piece
2. Add all seam allowances and hem allowances
3. Use the company's visual reference picture
4. Translate the concise instructions of the pattern piece if you can
5. Rely on your experience to put it together or consult some books if you want

I love skirts and this style was sooo cute and summery I just couldn't resist it.  I believe it may only be available by email request now through Marfy alone.  I don't know which year this was catalogued in, but check it out, it may stll be available (as of 2012).

Here is the visual reference from the company:

(I had to scan my printed file here because I did lose this original file)
*Now, looking at this reference, you got to hand it to the company for having an imagination for trendy awesome clothing. I see here in the seam of the top half and the flounce that there is a idea to stitch on a chain stitch, feather stitch or fly stitch, not to mention a hand stitched running stitch for aesthetics*

Now, I am aware that some newer and specialized machines can sew a running stitch which would save time, but doing it by hand is just as effective and costs pennies.

Can you imagine I may have done more than that?  You bet I did.  Not only did I sew a running top stitch, I also hand stitched a heavy chain stitch along the seam line and embroidered a mess of wild roses growing into each other along the flounce hem line.  What's a life without challenges?

Anyway, here are the pics:




Heavy chain stitch with perle thread

Wild roses on the first third of the flounce

Wild rose of white variety on the back of the flounce

Rose of local variety at home(R. nutkana) on last third of flounce



Finished skirt!!!

Well, along with this skirt came a waist band.  I used sew-in interfacing as I always do.  I also made this skirt out of a light plain weave cotton that isn't that opague in one layer,so, I have to wear a slip for modesty reasons. As for the colour scheme except Rosa nootkana, I had to make several photos of wild roses at the college so I can get my colour blending to meet certain criteria, and hopefully at the smaller size to look somewhat real.

And, don't forget the invisible zipper in cream colour sewn into the left side.  I only used a 1 cm allowance here.

Well, that is this Marfy skirt completed in 3 weeks.

Thanks!
(BTW, I know this skirt is wrinkled.  I have been wearing it a lot with the few hours of whole sun days we have every year)

Simplicity 5259 Skirt completed!!

Yay!  It's done.

This is my second skirt from this pattern that I made.  This one is View F with the slit in the left front.  This was a very easy skirt to make, but in my case it always takes longer because I tend to do a lot of thread painting on my pieces which can stall a project for up to 3 weeks depending on my work or school schedules, so I usually give it a good 3 weeks to finish the handiwork anyway.

Looking at the envelope, the finished project is supposed to look like the one featured on the front, so,

And I made mine in black, not fushia(YUCK!!)

I had an idea come to me as I was thinking of making view F and thought about putting a white flower above the slit on the left front along the seam line.  I have lots of books with projects of white flowers and I came across one that I copied (with minor alterations to leaf structure)from Trish Burr's Redoutes Finest Flowers in Embroidery, that was labelled Le Lys Blanc and I had to do this one.  So for reference, here is the book front cover, in case anyone is familiar with it:

So, in having a nice white flower on the front it gave it a nice contrast which is what I was going for.  I did make some substitutions for colour schemes in the buds of the lillies, and I also didn't pad the work for dimension because I figured it would be kind of messy when it comes to dry cleaning time.

For this project I used:

1.5m of cotton twill in black
DMC embroidery floss in off white, ecru, optic white, varying shades of green, yellow, orange
1- 18cm invisible zipper (black)
black thread(I love JP Coats-always works for me)
black serging thread (if needed)
black medium weight sew-in interfacing for facing at waist level.

Now, onto the actual pictures:

Step 1:

Put the skirt fronts together.  DO NOT sew the 2 back halves to the fronts yet.  Finish the seam where the embroidery is going to go.  When you work on areas that have not been finished, you will lose your fabric to fraying.

Step 2:

Prepare your image on your fabric by using a trace of the flower.  Pin trace onto the fabric and use an appropriate fabric pen or pencil.  Since I have  black fabric, I need to use a white marker that will mark finer lines.  DO NOT use tailors chalk.  It's too thick. I suppose a tracing wheel might work but we got some very small detailing and fuddy-duddy areas, so, no.

Pin tracing paper onto the spot where you want

Step 3:

Start embroidering!!  Whatever method you use, it doesn't matter.  Make sure your hoop is drum tight.




Progress

 



Progress








Finished!

 

Step 4:

BASTE FIRST BEFORE SEWING PERMANENT STITCHS!!!

Sew in the invisible zipper in the centre back.  I always use invisible zippers on skirts because they are very easy to install.  When dealing with commercial patterns, they always give you 1.5cm allowance.  I usually use a wide serge finish that actually measures 0.5cm(5 mm), so, in placing the zipper in the centre back, all that needs to be done is setting the edge of the zipper tape with the serge finish.  This will only work if your serge is 5 mm, otherwise, readjustments need to be made. 

Now, when I sew Marfy patterns, sometimes I only add 1cm allowance for invisible zippers, which by itself is enough for invisible zippers, but commercial patterns have a lot of extra "room", so, that's why  do what I do with commercial patterns

Baste in the zipper.   I line up the zipper tape with the edge of the serge finish to line up the seam below zipper

Step 5:

Apply interfacing to the facing along the waist area. 

Since this pattern originally intended the outcome to be unlined, we need the facing. If you want to line this puppy, all that needs to be done is reverse the skirt front and back for the lining right sides and sew together as you would with the fashion fabric.  Then, since you are sewing the lining to the bottom part of the facing, you may need to cut the top part of each skirt front and back below the top so that the distance will match the bottom distance of the facing.  I think the top of the skirt isn't as wide, so I will get back on that later, and I will explain more in detail.

Otherwise, I left this unlined because I didn't have anything of aesthetic value to add to this, nor do I have enough of what I had.

***I will line this.  WHY?  It will preserve the life of the embroidery from wear and tear.  I am on it!!!***

Step 6:

As for the hem, it is a simple matter.  3.2cm(1-1/4 inch) standard hem from commercial companies is common, so I don't have a fancy blind hemmer machine and I can't get my blind hemmer stitch on my machine to be of any use to me,  so I hand stitch it.  It is so fast!  It looks like a cross between a herringbone stitch and a whip stitch, but it works!

The slanted hem stitch from R to L because I am a southpaw



And that sums up this project.

Bye for now!!  Stay tuned for the lining!!!



Marfy 2410 size 46

Another finished Marfy pattern!!!


Finshed Jacket!



Marfy 2410 conceptual drawing and visual reference

  I looked at the conceptual drawing and I just had to make it!  I believe it is fairly new, and you can get it on the vogue pattern website or through Marfy directly(as of 2012).  I didn't make it in yellow but I got 2 metres of pink cotton that I was planning on making a blazer with that never came to be.  Instead I made this jacket.

As always, with most Marfy patterns you have to add seam allowances and hem allowances.  I had to make this in size 46 which is a tad bit too small so I increased my general 1cm seam allowance to 1.5cm and sewed with 1cm allowance adding an extra 0.5cm at the front, sides, and back. That gave me enough ease to fit snug and right.
As always I drafted in my 2 cm hem allowance and hemmed 1.5cm leaving it a tad bit longer.

 *The zipper seam in the front I drafted a 1.5cm seam allowance to fit the width of the zipper.*


Front zipper, button flaps, 4 buttons. Flaps can extend to either side





This pattern had every piece needed to complete the entire look except the sleeve binding which is easy enough to draft yourself, which you can either use binding or finish it some other way.

As the conceptual drawing suggests on the front decorative flaps, topstitching is visible and quite stylish here.

I did this with the front flaps, front and side front, and side back seams to complete the look. 

* It looks really good when the machine topstitching is sewn with a longer straight stitch.  I usually choose 3.5cm long stitch using and edgestitching foot*



Also, Marfy's stylish approach sometimes leaves sewer's scratching their heads with pattern pieces that appear confusing but really isn't.  With this pattern, I expected to see separate cap sleeve pattern pieces but in fact were drafted in with the side front.  This may appear quite different to normal convention but I assure you, it is a time saver!

The binding on the sleeves I safely cut 2 of (50 x 5) square cm rectangles on the straight grain. Most of the time, bias cut binding is done, but for plain weave fabric it won't make any difference for my use.

For the sleeves, all that was required here was to gather each front and back sections where it states.  The shoulder seam on the front and back piece needs to be pleated at the seam which ties up the job nicely.

* I would mark your pleat, sew the shoulder seam, make your knife pleats on front and back, then gather to fit the stated lengths.*





Binding on sleeve. Hand stitched on the inside.



The areas needed as facings were the waist band section, lapel, under collar, and the pattern piece to face the rest of the length of the zipper.

I did not need to interface the decorative front flaps.  Fabric ended being stiff enough.


* Now, anyone is welcome to line this jacket fully if they want.  I didn't want to, and therefore, serged the collar on the inside instead of lining it.*

Here's the money shot!  Faced sections of jacket, hand hemmed in place



For the supplies all I really used was:

2 m of self fabric (pink quilting cotton)

A standard 23cm long separating zipper

4- 20mm buttons of any type

Pink sewing thread

Sew-in interfacing on collar, lapel, button flaps and waist band and inside zipper front facing.

Well, there you have it in a nutshell.  Any questions?







Butterick 5685 size 18

Winter Coat

Butterick 5685

I finally finished my winter coat for this year.  I chose Butterick 5685 size 18.  I wanted a damask pattern jacket, and I found some drapery fabric on sale for $4.00 per metre, and with it being winter I also decided to put a layer of batting for warmth. 

To extend the life of this jacket, I decided to tack down the batting to the fashion fabric with glass beads.  By doing this the basted layers won't seperate as easily.  I suspect this will be a dry cleaning issue in the future, and the beads make it look really nice.

By adding a batting layer, it also made this thing really heavy overall, but what are you going to do in the winter when you're cold and outside?

Overall, I found this pattern to be very easy to put together, as it states it was at the "EASY" sewer level.

Be aware that the cotton quilt batting layer caused a lot of fluff off everywhere!  I used the lint brush like you would not believe.  I think I could fit into a size 16 but I chose 18 just in case.

Here are the supplies used:

Butterick pattern 5685 View C (full length)

7m of 150cm wide drapery fabric(yes, one way designs are hogs when it comes to fabric usage)

2.5m? of heavy weight black linen ( I used what ever I had leftover, didn't measure)

5 packages (minimum) of Mill Hill brand seed beads (Colour #3002)

2.8 m of cotton quilt batting

2 m of black light weight sew-in interfacing
Navy colour sewing thread
Black colour sewing thread
Navy serger thread, Black serger thread
6-23mm pewter coloured buttons

Finishing and attaching the lining:

I went on a limb and broke away from the intructions way to attach the lining only because I HATE slipstitching, so, I sewed on the lining seperately from the main fabric, attached the lining to the collar and attached the sleeve lining and bottom hem with a handsewn blind hemstitch or whipstitch.  To me it looks fine and attaching the lining is way easier for me this way.




Back View C

Beading on sleeve

Button detail

Marfy blazer pattern 1444 size 46

New Post in 3 years!

What I used in this project:

size 46 Marfy pattern #1444 blazer

wool/poly blend aubergine fashion fabric

grey bemberg lining

black thread(complimentary)
grey matching thread (lining)

lots of serging black thread
2-18 mm size buttons

3-23mm size buttons

I have wanted to finish sewing this blazer for over a year now, and I finally finished it.

I first had a hard time deciding what colour it should be, and I found a wool/poly blend in aubergine that I just loved and so here it is!

First, always look at the company's artistic drawing. This was a real help when it came down to looking at the tabs in the front and how to attach it to the front.

I won't lie, the way I wanted them to go on the front I found was a bit tricky and then I cut out a facing for the tab part. I used the pattern piece that contained the front tab O-Q match points that is cut on the bias. I only traced the area from O-Q and below and added my seam allowance above the notches and around the surrounding area so that the facing looked more or less like a square with a gable top. The seam allowance above the notches I figured was to be sewn to the main front piece.

*Please sew the tab facing by hand, either by slipstitch or back stitch to join up with the main seam of the top half/bottom half of the front*

I secured the front tabs with the 18mm size buttons. I did not edge stitch around the border of the tab to secure it to the front. I didn't want that look but would be acceptable if you don't want the facing sewn onto the bottom portion of the O-Q match points

For the front buttons I used 23 mm size buttons. I found these buttons with a bellflower(campanula) type design. I lucked out.

Everything else was pretty straight forward. Marfy has their way of doing things and the trick is to match letters from piece to piece and know that the patterns are well drafted and will fit together well.

I drafted a 1 cm seam allowance to all the pieces and used that for the hem as well. I didn't want to increase the length so I kept it as is.

Any other ideas on how to put this together? let me know.

(Sorry, but my camera lost battery power, used my phone instead)